In June, I took the car ferry to Dunkirk, then drove from there to Amsterdam where I was based for several days of touring and visiting sites in Holland mainly related to their food sector, more specifically the famously productive Dutch horticultural industry, which covers over 100 square kilometres in high tech greenhouses that hugely extend both the growing season and general productivity. I also spent a memorable day in Wageningen University Research, a world-famous facility promoting the application of cutting-edge science to food technology. Though less than half the size of Ireland, and with far less farmland at its disposal, the Dutch food sector is five times the size of Ireland’s, and this tiny country is now the world’s second largest food exporter, after the US. Can we simply replicate the Dutch model in Irish conditions? Climatically, yes, but we lack the ready access to European road and rail networks, nor do we have any port to remotely rival Rotterdam. But could we have a much smaller scale version of, say Dutch horticulture here, growing under glass to meet much of our national need for self-sufficiency in vegetables and fruit? Yes, absolutely. What’s lacking is political will, while the farm lobby (which has effectively captured Teagasc, our state food research agency) is completely dominated by livestock interests who care little about such trivia as food security and are only interested in keeping a production line of bulk monoculture commodities flowing from farm to dairy and meat processing facilities and from there to god knows where. I filed the below report for The Irish Times Science & Climate page in late August.
AMID THE WELTER of government-backed agrifood industry plans based around the continued expansion of food exports, there remains a deafening silence around the crunch issue of Ireland’s national food security.
In contrast, in the UK there is growing alarm that, as geopolitical tensions escalate, climate-fuelled extreme weather events intensify and global supply chains fray, its population is likely facing into soaring food prices and outright shortages in the near term.
In May, the UK’s Climate Change Committee warned that climate breakdown is putting domestic food production under growing threat and urged the government to take active steps to ensure at least 60 per cent of its total food needs are produced locally. Ireland, remarkably, appears to have no targets whatever for domestic food production.
Despite Ireland having four times more farmland per person than the UK, we are in fact far more food-insecure than our nearest neighbour, as we import over 80 per cent of all our food needs, both for human consumption and our (non-grass) animal feed. Around five million tonnes of grains and feedstuff are imported annually, of which two million tonnes is for dairy cattle, as well as around one million tonnes of chemical fertilisers, mainly to feed our large livestock herd.
In 2024, Ireland imported a total of around 400,000 tonnes of potatoes, apples, onions, carrots, cabbage and tomatoes, all human-edible crops that grow well in Irish conditions. Horticulture uses less than two per cent of Ireland’s farmland, yet produces three times the income per hectare of conventional agriculture. It is also labour-intensive, accounting for one in 10 agri-food jobs in Ireland and producing over half a billion euros in farmgate value.
Horticulture is by some distance our most efficient system at producing food for human consumption, yet it receives little more than lip-service from either the state or farming organisations. In Ireland domestic production of fruit and vegetables has been in freefall for decades, with an 85 per cent decline in field growers of vegetables since 2000.
When it comes to producing food for human consumption, the contrast between Ireland and Holland could hardly be more stark. Despite having a land mass less than half our size, with a population of 17 million, Holland is the world’s second largest food exporter, with its remarkable horticulture sector a global trail-blazer, employing over 140,000 people, which is similar to Ireland’s entire farming population. Exports of Dutch horticultural products, including fruit and veg, were valued at €38 billion in 2025, that is double the size of Ireland’s entire food and drink export industry.
The key to its success is technology and expertise. Land is scarce in Holland and so is highly valued. Its vast complex of greenhouses covers around 100 square kilometres. These extend the growing season to almost the entire year, despite Holland having a similar climate to Ireland. Growing under glass typically leads to more than ten times greater productivity per hectare farmed.
One example I recently visited was the Voorhof nursery in Overijssel, a greenhouse complex covering 7.8 hectares that specialises in cucumber production. Manager René Kalter explained that their annual production amounts to around 16 million cucumbers, weighing 8,000 tonnes, and over 60 people are employed at the facility, which operates for around 10 months of the year and exports to several European countries.
A reserve of around five million litres of rainwater recovered from the rooftops is stored for use on-site while the facility also has 2,800 solar panels for electricity production. A key vulnerability of greenhouses is that they are energy-intensive. Typically, Dutch greenhouses are heated with gas, which apart from carbon emissions, also makes them vulnerable to price shocks, such as the Ukraine and Iran wars.
The Voorhof nursery is one of a cluster of five horticulture businesses all within a close radius. In 2012, they jointly invested around €10 million in a geothermal system, which is one of around 30 similar systems around Holland. This draws a steady stream of hot water from 2,000 metres underground to the surface, and this is distributed to the nurseries via a network of insulated underground pipes.
The Voorhof nursery has a giant buffer tank that holds around four million litres of geothermally heated water, and this meets virtually the entire heating needs of the plant.
Pest management is a major challenge for all monoculture food systems. Traditionally, Dutch horticulture has been a major user of chemical pesticides, but there has been a sharp recent shift towards biological pest control methods. These include introducing predators, such as parasitic wasps, mites, beetles, nematodes and ladybirds to consume aphids and other pests, as well as using sticky traps.
Hygiene is paramount. Before entering the greenhouse complex, we had to wash our hands carefully with disinfectant, while wearing plastic overalls to cover our shoes. Packs of biological agents were visible throughout the greenhouse, including pheromones designed to confuse insects with chemical signals to prevent them from mating.
The Voorhof nursery has not fully eliminated chemical pesticides, but, according to Kalter, they are “the last line of defence, and only called upon rarely”. Avoiding pesticide usage is also an important consideration in protecting the health of greenhouse employees.
While the investment and expertise required for high-tech horticulture are significant, so too are the rewards. A 2019 study on horticulture options for Ireland commissioned by the Department of Agriculture noted that Dutch glasshouse-based vegetable production was around 80 times more profitable per hectare than dairying, as well as being vastly more efficient at providing food for human consumption.
Holland is now among the world’s largest exporters of agricultural and food technology, including cell-cultured meat, vertical farming and a range of innovations that have allowed farmers to cut water consumption, pesticide use and carbon emissions. Incredibly, the Netherlands now accounts for one third of all the global trade in vegetable seeds.
At the epicentre of the Dutch agriculture miracle is Wageningen University & Research (WUR), a world leading agri-food research facility which in turn is surrounded by a cluster of research centres collectively known as Food Valley – a nod to California’s Silicon Valley cluster of tech enterprises.
Dutch agri-food expertise and training is exported to over 100 countries, many in Africa and Latin America suffering from food insecurity. This includes modified seeds and plants that are better able to cope with climate-related stresses such as drought, flooding and extreme temperatures.
On a recent visit to WUR, Rick van de Zedde, programme manager of the eco-phenotyping facility, took us into a light and temperature-controlled room where some 300 glass plates, each containing individual wheat plants were being exposed to differing growing conditions and stresses. Their root systems are scanned optically using a robotic system every day to precisely measure the responses of different genotypes to, for instance, drought.
In the university’s greenhouse research complex, tomato plants were being encouraged to produce more Vitamin C by tweaking the exact frequency of LED light the plants are exposed to at different parts of their life cycle. Researcher Rick Wieggers showed us a processing facility where freshwater algae are being used as a novel source of sustainable lipid and protein production to replace petroleum and palm oils in food and transport. Microalgae produce vastly more lipids per hectare than standard oilseed crops and WUR is working to scale this process up to make it viable at an industrial level.
The Achilles’ Heel of the Dutch food system remains its huge export-oriented intensive livestock sector which, like Ireland, is heavily reliant on cheap imported animal feeds and is a major source of emissions and water pollution.
That’s the view of Bart de Steenhuijsen Piters, senior food systems researcher at WUR. “Efficiency and resilience are in conflict with one another, and through the development of the European food system, including in Ireland, we have been optimising efficiency, while not being aware that we have managed resilience out of the system”.
With multiple shocks hitting the global food system in just the last few years, including Covid and two major wars, all amplified by worsening climate impacts, de Steenhuijsen Piters warns of growing near-term threats to fundamental European food security, a vulnerability he argues is greatly increased by excessive livestock agriculture.
While acknowledging the huge productivity of Dutch agriculture, he believes there is still an over-emphasis on meat production (especially pork) and consumption, which he describes as “neither sustainable nor particularly healthy”.
For a glimpse into a truly sustainable model, de Steenhuijsen Piters points to neighbouring Denmark, which recently abolished its ministry for agriculture, and – unlike Ireland – is cracking down hard on nitrogen pollution in a public backlash against its ultra-intensive pig production industry in particular.
While Irish politicians repeat the hollow mantra about Ireland ‘feeding the world’, the Dutch system, for all its flaws, is doing exactly this. If Irish agriculture wants to look at a model for the future that uses high technology to combine productivity with resilience and efficiency in the face of our fast-changing climate, then Holland has much to teach us.
- John Gibbons is an environmental journalist and author of ‘The Lie of the Land – The Truth About Farming, Climate & Power in Ireland’

In a rush of optimism, I had gone for a bigger venue – the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin’s Dawson Street – which realistically needed upwards 75 attendees to look reasonably busy. As the date approached, my anxiety intensified as I scrambled to complete a series of last minute tasks related to the launch.

